If a gorgeous Kashmiri shawl isn’t a part of your wardrobe, you are missing out!! The renowned Kashmiri Shawl are viewed as a symbol of grandeur and have startled both Indian and foreign academics and artwork enthusiasts. The vintage shawls have recently sparked a special interest amongst various levels of the society.
Due to its exquisite wool, skillful weaving and needlework, and gentle fabric, Kashmiri shawls are high in demand. Vintage shawls were a premium product all of which were bestowed through the centuries and often worn by nobility or aristocrats. Furthermore exported to England and France in the late nineteenth century, it is claimed that Napoleon Bonaparte presented his wives Kashmir shawls. The shawl business was founded in Kashmir under Sultan Zain-ul-Abideen. A skilled weaver from Turkestan was summoned by the Sultan to build a loom for manufacturing shawls. The business was restructured by the Mughals. Kashmiri shawls were donned by Akbar and his successors. Shawls gained prominence in France after Napoleon gifted Empress Josephine a magnificent Kashmiri shawl. Both France and Britain desired to design and recreate "Cashmere" shawls, however they preferred a technology more in accordance with European fashion. The pruning of the European shawls rendered them clumsier and less appealing. Women from Europe prioritized Kashmiri shawls with much more elaborate embroidery.
Shawls from Kashmir have been created ever since the 1st century AD. While historical textile remnants are pretty uncommon, fragments of Kashmir shawls from the third and the sixth centuries have now been discovered in Egypt and Syria. The Mughal emperors favored floral design in their fabrics, buildings, and artistry in the seventeenth century, resulting in a rise in recognition for floral prints as an ageless trend. The nineteenth century saw a rise in the prominence of paisley patterns (boteh), whose designs became even more intricate, elaborate, and surreal. Shawls from Kashmir are presented as wedding gifts. Classy and fashionable men also drape it over the shoulders. Numerous people, both men and women, are nourished by the Kashmiri shawl trade, particularly in the villages of Kashmir. Even the upcoming youth assist their parents in their embroidery endeavors. Although the textile industry necessitates a significant amount of simply sitting, people continue to work for a livelihood.
The intricacies of the Kashmiri Shawl
The horizontal looms are used among Kashmiri weavers. The yarn is "doubled" by the women as they assemble the warps. The design is chosen by the artist, also termed as naqqash. The tarah-goru, sometimes known as the hue caller, analyzes the pattern from the bottom up and yells out every color in succession, as well as how many warp yarns the bobbin of the weft should pass though. The customary signs, also referred as the "shawl alphabet," are employed by a design master identified as the talim goru to transcribe these directions. The talim, or transcription, is maintained in view of the weavers as they weave at the looms. The plain pattern of a tapestry, an age-old textile method that involves the weft periodically traveling over and under one warp yarn at a time, is employed in numerous countries around the world nowadays. However, only within Kashmir—and to a lesser degree in Iran—did shawl weavers use a twill weave for tapestry, where the weft travels over and beneath two warp-threads at a time, with the warps' pairing shifting with each row of the weft. This modification was supposedly made to alleviate the strain on the fragile cashmere warp-threads. Twill-woven textiles have a characteristic, superfine diagonal rib that adds depth to the completed designs.
Q1. Why is the Kashmir shawl
Shawls created in Kashmir are
highly regarded not just for the superior quality of the wool used in their
construction but also for the expert weaving and stitching that goes into their
production. In the past, shawls were regarded as items of luxury; as a result,
they were commonly worn by royalty or nobility, and they were regularly passed
down from one generation to the next. During the 19th century, Kashmir shawls
were also exported to England and France; according to one urban legend,
Napoleon Bonaparte presented both of his wives with presents consisting of
Q2. Why are Kashmiri shawls so
Because of their intricate
weaving and embroidery as well as the sumptuously plush feel of their wool,
shawls from Kashmir are able to command a premium price. Antique shawls were
items of luxury that were frequently worn by royalty or other members of the
aristocracy and were handed down from one generation to the next. Currently,
antique shawls are highly sought for by collectors. Collectors place a great
premium on the acquisition of antique shawls. The shawl trade in Kashmir is
largely responsible for the establishment of the cashmere industry across the
world. This is especially true in Asia. This is due to the fact that Kashmir
shawls have a reputation for being exceptionally warm despite their thin
weight. This reputation is well-deserved.
Q3. What is special about the Kashmir
The Pashmina shawl, which is
traditionally made in Kashmir, is widely considered to be one of the state's most
desirable retail goods. The shawls include gorgeous needlework all over them,
and they are quite plush and comfortable to wear. Sozni, papier-mache, and aari
are the three primary forms of needlework that are often done on Pashmina
shawls. Sozni is a type of needlework that is done in a panel that is
attached to the sides of the shawl. The patterns that are used in sozni might
be abstract designs or stylised paisleys and flowers. The application of
papier-mache and stitching can either be done in large panels on either side
along the width of a shawl's breadth or can cover the entirety of a shawl's
surface. The flowers and leaves that make up the motifs all have a black border
around them. The floral pattern is a common motif in aari embroidery, which is
a type of needlework called hook embroidery.
Q4. How many types of Kashmiri shawls
Kashmiri shawls can be found in a
variety of designs, including the borders of a harshidaar shawl are embroidered
with elaborate designs every two inches. The center of this shawl is devoid of
Neendoor shawls have embroidery
around their borders, but the stitching is just three to four inches wide.
Doordaar - Like harshidaar and
neemdoor, the only noticeable variation is the needlework, which measures
between four and five inches.
The needlework on this shawl,
known as a paladarr, is broad and features large designs on two of the shawl's
sides but is much sparser in its length on the other two. The patterns on this
Botidaar shawl are quite dispersed. The shawl's pattern might be uniformly
repeated, or it can have a variety of designs.
Q5. How do you identify a Kashmiri
Verify how it seems. Original
items will often have a flat, matte finish; however, there may be rare
occasions where they have a tiny gloss. If it seems shiny, you might want to
see how much it costs. To a certain extent, this is normal, but if there is a
lot of it, you probably chose the wrong fabric. Be sure to inspect the weave. A
shawl is always made by hand using only the softest cashmere yarns. It will
have an uneven weave because of this. If you hold the shawl up to the light,
you can see all of the flaws in it. Check to see if anything has been stuck to
it. If the material does not have a label or tag affixed to it, it must be
fake. Real cashmere is too delicate to ever be able to hold any sort of
adhesive. The adhesive will eventually peel off.
Q6. Who introduced the shawl in
The making of shawls is a
traditional skill that stretches back centuries in Kashmir and is considered to
be one of the region's oldest crafts. According to legend, Zayn-ul-Abidin, who
ruled Kashmir back in the 15th century, was the one who introduced it to the
area. This would have taken place in Kashmir. He sent an invitation to weavers
based in Central Asia, asking them to come and find employment in Kashmir.
Since that time, the ability has been handed down from one generation to the
next while also undergoing ongoing development and improvement.
Q7. Which shawl is expensive?
The quality of Shahtoosh is
widely acknowledged as the best that can be achieved by human hands in the
textile industry. Even though each fiber is only around 7 to 10 micrometers in
size, it is nevertheless regarded to be one-sixth of that of a human hair. This
fabric is used to make luxurious shawls and scarves known as shahtoosh. A shawl
like this is highly sought after across the world because of its versatility
and comfort. There was a time when it was something everyone wanted. People
have claimed to be physically dependent on its stunning attractiveness, which
has been compared to "nothing else in the world."
Q8. Which city is famous for shawls?
The riches, wisdom, and goods of
ancient India were disseminated throughout the world via Kashmir, which served
as a crucial stop on the trade route. The renowned shawls made in Kashmir are
some of the most well-known examples of woven textiles in the world. The floral
design is typically composed of small or large flowers that have been
delicately sprayed and combined; some shawls have net-like patterns with floral
ensemble motifs embedded in them. The floral design appears in a heavy, close
embroidery-like weave in dull silk or soft pashmina (Persian, meaning
"woolen"), and it is typically woven in.
Q9. Why are shawls so popular?
Shawls are more substantial and
can be worn as a form of protection against the icy wind. Lastly, the shawls
are well-known for the texture designs they feature and the fine finish they
have. Shawls can be worn for a variety
of purposes, including keeping warm, as an enhancement to an outfit, and for
symbolic reasons. One of the most common uses for shawls is as an accessory.
Jewish males will frequently cover themselves in shawls known as tallit while
participating in prayers and other religious activities. This particular
variety of shawl is known as a tallit. The one who created it refers to it as
"a supernatural shawl" because of the fact that it has the ability to
keep Magda alive for three days and three evenings. This is because it has the
capacity to keep Magda alive for a total of three days and three evenings if
she consumes it.
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